Semillon is a grape variety. It is normally pronounced with a "soft" double L - ie. "Sem-ee-on". Pronouncing the "L's" is OK though. We tend to use European accents for grape names - Cabernet has a soft "T"; so does the "G" in Sauvignon.

Semillon is a grape variety which can give unique identity in Australia. Other than small plantings in the USA, South Africa, Chile and New Zealand, substantial vineyards of Semillon in the world are in the French district Bordeaux and in Australia. In Bordeaux, Semillon is blended with the grape Sauvignon Blanc to create two styles: One is a dry smokey lightish white (naturally known as White Bordeaux. Graves is an important region in Bordeaux for dry whites and "Dry White Graves" is a common term). The other is Sauternes - the subdistrict at the south of Bordeaux famous for Botrytis infected grapes and a resultant luscious dessert wine. Chateau d'Yquem is the famous example. Half bottles of this wine retail for A$250 and more.

Australian Semillon is quite recognisable. When young, it is austere and fresh. It has naturally high acid levels even in the warmish Hunter Valley region. Semillon ages wonderfully. In England for example, aged Australian Semillon is generally listed as one of our "classic" wine styles. With age it develops toasty straw richness. Eventually at 10 years or so, it forms buttery toasty flavours.

The "home" of Semillon in Australia is the Hunter Valley. The grape was planted there in the 1830's and until recently, was often known as Hunter River Riesling. Last century, German whites made of Riesling were fashionable and the name was "borrowed". McWilliams Mount Pleasant Elizabeth was called "Riesling" for decades although made of Semillon. Recent vintages do not bear the Riesling name on the label. It is a great example of a Hunter Semillon. McWiIliams actually hold it back for release - currently the 1989 vintage is available. Other great Hunter Semillons include Rothbury Estate, Tyrrells Vat 1, Tyrrells Lost Block, Tyrrells Old Winery, Lindemans Hunter River Semillon - also found with the Hunter River White Burgundy and Hunter River Chablis labels, Brokenwood, Rosemount and Rosemount Show Semillon.

Semillon is an important grape in South Australia. Often it is the staple flavour in wines labelled "White Burgundy". In recent years, this generic "borrowed" term is fading from use and the Semillon name is appearing. Basedows Wood Matured Semillon is an example. Now owned by Grant Burge, look for Grant Burge Semillon. Henschke Tillys Vineyard is an example of a marketing name on a Semillon which shows a little oak flavour. St Hallett Poachers Blend consists of Semillon mainly. Tim Adams Semillon and The Willows Semillon are examples of a forward rich flavoured style. Cassegrain Five Mile Hollow from Port Macquarie, NSW is a blend of Semillon, Verdelho and Sauvignon Blanc.

Semillon in Australia comes into its own when used for dessert wine. De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon and Wilton Estate Botrytis Semillon are both from Griffith NSW. The Botrytis fungus grows on the ripe grapes and causes them to shrivel up as they evaporate their water content though without spoiling. The result is a batch of grapes with concentrated richness, flavour and sweetness.

An interesting and delicious wine is De Bortoli "Rare" Dry Botrytis Semillon. The Semillon grapes have been infected by Botrytis but only slightly. A dry light table wine is made which shows an additional dimension of complexity.